Outdoor furniture is different from those found indoors because they are made with the weather in mind. Changes in weather, from sunshine to torrential rain, will always happen and such should be considered in the construction. There have been quite a lot of techniques accumulated through the years of woodworking and let us find out what these are.
Through the years, it has been found out that there are species of wood that are better suited for exterior applications. Such are tropical species such as mahogany and teak. These species are naturally impregnated with oils that repel water and also discourage growth of rot-causing organisms.
Teak and mahogany are hard to come by nowadays. A very suitable substitute is pressure treated wood. The treatment mentioned injects poison deep inside the wood and it deters the growth and spread of tor causing fungi and bacteria.
Be aware that not all pressure treated wood is the same. Those with an LP-2 rating are the types of wood that should not be used for applications that require direct contact with water. A rating of LP-22 is recommended for immersed applications, while LP-2 is suitable for most outdoor chairs and tables.
Moisture in wood, aside from causing decay, will corrode attached metals such as nails, hinges, and screws. For outdoor use, metals should be treated accordingly. Everyday nails and screws will only rust and discolor wood and worse, will eventually weaken the structure. A common treatment for metals to make them suitable for exterior applications is galvanizing. A coating of zinc is applied to the metal. This makes them resistant to corrosion but only in applications exposed to freshwater
For furniture that needs to be exposed to salt water, more robust materials are required. Stainless steel and brass are the most common metals for wood fixtures in environments exposed to salt. This is only natural because these kinds of metals are used in nautical applications.
Experienced craftsmen always account for wood expansion when it becomes moist. For every foot across the grain, there is an accompanying quarter inch expansion. When your construction plan does not account for changes in width when wood becomes moist, such will result in a failed structure.
Craftsmen have also learned not to directly expose the end grain of wooden parts. It has been known the fibers act like wicks and will rapidly suck in moisture. When end grain cannot be hidden, then the best way is to cut them at an angle so that water will shed rapidly.
Good examples of construction show spaces between wooden boards. These spaces allow wood to safely expand and permit water to drain rapidly. For tabletops, common spacing range from a quarter to half an inch.
It cannot be helped to expose end grain of the legs of outdoor tables and chairs. Sealing them will greatly help. A common way is to use wax or varnish as sealant.
The experiences of craftsmen through the years led to a collection of techniques that counteract the effects of moisture and humidity in outdoor furniture. If you really think about them, these techniques are mostly common sense. By using these techniques in your projects, you and your children will surely enjoy them for decades to come.
Through the years, it has been found out that there are species of wood that are better suited for exterior applications. Such are tropical species such as mahogany and teak. These species are naturally impregnated with oils that repel water and also discourage growth of rot-causing organisms.
Teak and mahogany are hard to come by nowadays. A very suitable substitute is pressure treated wood. The treatment mentioned injects poison deep inside the wood and it deters the growth and spread of tor causing fungi and bacteria.
Be aware that not all pressure treated wood is the same. Those with an LP-2 rating are the types of wood that should not be used for applications that require direct contact with water. A rating of LP-22 is recommended for immersed applications, while LP-2 is suitable for most outdoor chairs and tables.
Moisture in wood, aside from causing decay, will corrode attached metals such as nails, hinges, and screws. For outdoor use, metals should be treated accordingly. Everyday nails and screws will only rust and discolor wood and worse, will eventually weaken the structure. A common treatment for metals to make them suitable for exterior applications is galvanizing. A coating of zinc is applied to the metal. This makes them resistant to corrosion but only in applications exposed to freshwater
For furniture that needs to be exposed to salt water, more robust materials are required. Stainless steel and brass are the most common metals for wood fixtures in environments exposed to salt. This is only natural because these kinds of metals are used in nautical applications.
Experienced craftsmen always account for wood expansion when it becomes moist. For every foot across the grain, there is an accompanying quarter inch expansion. When your construction plan does not account for changes in width when wood becomes moist, such will result in a failed structure.
Craftsmen have also learned not to directly expose the end grain of wooden parts. It has been known the fibers act like wicks and will rapidly suck in moisture. When end grain cannot be hidden, then the best way is to cut them at an angle so that water will shed rapidly.
Good examples of construction show spaces between wooden boards. These spaces allow wood to safely expand and permit water to drain rapidly. For tabletops, common spacing range from a quarter to half an inch.
It cannot be helped to expose end grain of the legs of outdoor tables and chairs. Sealing them will greatly help. A common way is to use wax or varnish as sealant.
The experiences of craftsmen through the years led to a collection of techniques that counteract the effects of moisture and humidity in outdoor furniture. If you really think about them, these techniques are mostly common sense. By using these techniques in your projects, you and your children will surely enjoy them for decades to come.
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